refitting the legs
2) shortening the rise
3) hemming pant legs
4) sewing a button
so the first problem being solved (the leg fit), the second problem with the pants is that the rise is too high. i almost tried to imagine them in their heyday, but i caught myself. luckily for me, it’s a bottom fly and easier to fix than a zipper. it involves cutting off the original waistband, the offensive excess rise, and refitting a new waistband.
step 1: measure the waistband cut
the photo is slightly incorrect actually because i measured 3″ out later, but you get the idea. the waistband is a piece of fabric covering the top layer, but it also fastens. i measured down to the top of the 3rd button from the bottom (where i wanted my new waistband to hit).
alternatively you don’t have to measure out all the way around the waistband: you can just align the cut portion over the uncut portion, folding and cutting as you go.
step 2: undo the hem of the original waistband
the white portion you see there is the interface, to give the fabric more structure. keep that together with the waist band, you want it exactly as it was, just in a new locale.
step 3: pin the old waistband hem onto the pants
once the old waistband has been freed, repin them onto the pants (right side out). there is a portion of the waist band that folds over, so to recreate that evenly, fold the waistband in half over the pants. then, fold half of that half back onto itself like shown. this will create a line for you to follow pinning the new waistband along.
as you’ve probably gathered, the new waistband is a bit short in length. what you’ll do in a later step is extend the pants but cutting up scraps of the rise and sewing them on.
step 4: sew on the waistband to the pants, allowing a 1/4″ seam
i neglected to photog this part, but its pretty self-explanatory. do not go all the way through the unfinished part of the waistband, you need to save enough room to be able to sew on the extended piece.
step 5: extending the waistband
measure out how much more of the waistband needs to be covered. use scraps of fabric from the rise and make sure the length fits the bill and the width is the same as the waistband currently attached, in order to match. in my case, i need 3 scrap pieces.
step 6: run the edges through a serger
isn’t it bootiful? i love serging, it’s both scary and satisfying at the same time. but that’s neither here nor there.
step 7: attach the waistband extension to the waistband
make sure all the seams are on the inside when you fold it over.
step 8: serge the attached part as well
your work should look something like this. you can new reattach the rest of the waistband until the pants are covered.
step 9: fold over the waistband
so that is covers the other seam where the waistband is attached.
step 10: sew along the outside like shown
this seam will show, so use a similar colored thread to the fabric.
you’re probably wondering about the seams on the extension piece: doesn’t it disrupt the waistband? for me, these pants have a busy pattern and i’m not really planning on wearing them to dinner parties so i’m not too worried about it. if you’re more concern about this, you can put the extension between belt loops in the back or on the sides. you just have to the remove the belt looks beforehand. alternatively, you could cut out a new waistband from another piece of fabric. just be sure to cut on the bias so that it folds and curves when sewn, otherwise weird puckering will happy and that’s no good.
questions? let me know! i’m still relatively unsure how much detail to put or pictures. help me help you!