I'm gonna need more hangers.
category: DIY
tags: , , , ,

sorry for not posting this earlier, i honestly didn’t think to make one, i was just dicking around.

but here we go! this is a tutorial for turning an old blazer with shoulder pads into a vest or vest dress. i’m not a professional, but i’m not a fan of DIYs that look like DIYs, ie. sloppy or fast. this is going to take awhile, but sit down and watching some reruns of a favorite show while you sew.

you’ll need:

1) a blazer

2) a seam ripper

3) sewing needle

4) pins with heads

5) thread of a similar color to blazer

6) fabric scissors

step 1: acquire blazer

i found this while thrifting, but you can use any blazer you like. pick on that fits well around the waist, i’ll only be showing you how to remove the sleeves and resew it the armholes. this tutorial is for the kind where the lining is sewn on, so it’s a bit more challenging than if there wasn’t one. i’d also go for a longish one so you can wear it as a dress or with leggings or what have you. but that’s just a personal preference.

step 2: remove the seams of the sleeve shell and lining

use a seam ripper. mine cost $1.48 at walmart and it’s my favorite sewing tool.

step 3: realign shoulder pads

if your blazer doesn’t have shoulder pads, you can skip this step. undo the shoulder pads, they’re probably anchored down by a few stitches. alternatively, you could just cut them until you get the length you want, but mine were fabric covered and pretty so i decided not to. it doesn’t really matter too much because they’ll be covered. i basically pushed the pads closer to the lapel till a little before my shoulders ended (for me, the final length was about 15.75″). i put them on the outside here to show you what i did, but you’re going to want to put them back between the lining and the shell.

step 4: reattach shoulder pads

pin the shoulder pads in place on the shell and lining to keep the lining in the right place and to not risk forgetting about sewing pins inside the jacket on accident (which i did on this very jacket, like a jackass, and how to wrestle it out). reachor them down onto the seam, so it doesn’t show on the outside of the lining. keep the pins that secure it in for now and remove everything at the end.

step 5: fold the hem over twice to cover the raw fabric edge

you’ll want the shell to be curling into the lining and ideally covering the shoulder pad as well. on the curved edges, cut a few notches like i have done so the fabric will curve more. don’t cut too deep or it won’t be covered when you fold. pin in place.

step 6: blind stitch in place

i used what’s called a blind stitch. that tutorial explains it really well, there are plenty out there. it’s a great hidden stitch, even better than the parallel stitch because it’s totally hidden if you do it right. a few notes:

1) when going through the covered hem, try to catch both the lining and shell so its more secure

2) when attaching to the main blazer part, catch only the lining. if you catch the shell too, it creates a weird puckering thing in the end. which i did. :( it was a long night.

tada!

sale: $25

the vest is closer to this color, a bright fuchsia watermelon hybrid.

if anyone’s interested in giving it a home, it’ll be $5 shipping, so let me know!

note: this was a thrifted piece, so it’s not in pristine condition. there’s a small stain on the lapel, but other than that, it’s in great condition.

anyways, i hope that helps and let me know if you have any questions! have fun DIYing!

category: DIY
tags: , , , ,

jacket [newyork&co]

this is a perfectly cozy moto jacket sweater but it was never exciting enough for me. it lacks the bells and whistles of the real thing: the belt, the buckles, the hard-edged zippers, LEATHER, so i’ve been wanting to turn it into something more sculptural. here’s how i did it and it’s really not terribly hard; it just takes a bit of patience. and love. lots of love.

 

step 1: undo the seams

first, i undid the seams of the bottom band in the back and one sleeve. feel free to do both sleeves, but i ended up liking the asymmetric look better. 

step 2: mark the back arc

i chose the end of the arc to be in the middle of the jacket, so i folded it hotdog style first and made a mark. then i folded it hamburger style and marked the rest of the arc. if you don’t have tailor’s chalk, or chalk period, a bar of old soap is perfect. in fact, i prefer it because its free. bahahhaha.

step 3: cut

step 4: refitting the back

this step is pretty crucial and may take some trial and error to find the right fits. if you notice, the bottom is too short to reattach because of the length of the arc made, so how to you make it fit?

you shorten the arc! if you notice on the right, i’ve folded up about an inch or more of the fabric in a triangular shape, where the hypotenuse is the side on the table and the short leg is the edge of the arc. it needs to be a triangular fold and not a parallelogram because you don’t want to create weird puckering underneath the armholes of the sleeves (if you choose to keep them) or shorten the armhole (if you omit them).  line up the short leg along the edge of the arc as you’re folding/fitting so that it stays even. i did two going towards the arm holes and another right down the center back.

alternatively, you could just do one down the center, i just chose to do 3 because i like the way it looks. skip to step 7 if you’re only doing one fold.

step 5: sew and trim

only sew the inside and check afterwards to see that everything still lines up. mine actually doesn’t line up perfectly, but it’s ok because it gets sewn over with the bottom piece.

step 6: sew again (opt.)

fold over one flap and sew again onto the jacket back, with a little bit of space between seams so it looks like the photo on the right when the jacket is worn. i did this to keep the new flap in place and it matched the seams on the jacket. you could finish it with a serger before this step, but i chose not to.

step 7: pin bottom to arc

this is where you make sure the refitted back is the same length as the bottom piece. pin it as close to the center as possible and make the final triangular fold down the middle. it helps to fold the jacket in half to center it. you could mark all of this, but i like eyeballing. i don’t really know why. maybe because i’m lazy in odd ways.

step 8: sew down center flaps and sew on bottom piece

this goes with the design and will keep it from breaking . alternatively, you could just use a serger over the new seam and skip this step. here are my results of the outside, after i’ve sewn on the bottom hem. i did the seam for the bottom the same way i did the triangular flaps.

step 9: armholes (opt.)

i made the armhole a bit larger, folded it over about a cm, repinned, and hemmed it with two parallel seams.

finished product

please let me know what if you have any questions or if i need to be more clear about some steps!

categories: DIY, What I Wore
tags: , , , , , ,

vest/dress [DIY neiman marcus] :: belt [express]

it took me 4 hours to undo the seams on the sleeves and restitch the armholes by hand. does anyone else think that’s incredibly slow? i’m annoyed at how rusty i am at this and my work near the shoulder pads isn’t perfect either.

i do like how oversized it is though and the buttons look great off-kilter. i added an extra hole in the back so i could belt it halfway. always wanted something like this, almost margiela and ann sofie back. funny ’cause i was altering this so i could resell it since the shell is a roughish wool, but i just might have to hold onto it for a little longer. its a pretty excellent summer dress.

speaking of reselling, i just listed a bunch of things on ebay if you’re interested. pardon some of my cheeky commentary and deadpan expressions. stay tuned for denim additions.

if you’d like the see the tutorial, i added it here.

vogue australia mar 2011 [fashiongonerogue]

can’t…get…enough…